Captain’s Log: The Ocean

After twelve days following the Missouri River to the Clearwater River to the Snake River to the Columbia, we finally made it to the Pacific Ocean.  It has taken me a little bit to figure out how to exactly portray the feeling when our toes hit the sand.  It has felt like we have become a part of the lives of these men.  We walked where they walked.  We saw where they camped and the landscape they covered.  And while we had both been to Long Beach before, this time was different.

Lewis and Clark Discovery Trail, Long Beach, WA

This 8.5 mile stretch of paved walking and biking path retraces the steps that Lewis and Clark took when they arrived here in November of 1805.  It was such an emotional feeling imagining how the Corps felt when they finally made it to the Pacific after 18 long months.  We took in the sea air and then went to look for Clark’s Tree: a replica of the tree that Clark carved his name in there.

Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center, Cape Disappointment, WA

A short hike and we were on top of the world with ocean as far as the eye could see.  What happened next was really quite adorable.  As we checked in to the front desk and got our stamps, this sweet girl Raegan gushed over our adventure.  She quickly became our number one fan as she immediately wanted a picture with us.  We slowly walked through the last Interpretive Center that culminated our adventure.

Lewis and Clark National Park at Fort Clatsop, Astoria, Oregon

Truth be told, I think we spent more time in their gift shop marveling over the book selection than at the actual Fort.  You see, our recent obsession with finding out what happened to Lewis had us pouring over books, figuring out which ones to buy, read, and trade.  Once we got down to the Fort, emotions ran over us again as we realized that this was where the expedition spent the winter of 1805.  And while this was the end of our expedition, it was only half over for the Corps.  I couldn’t imagine the mixed feelings of relief and anxiousness they felt as preparations were made for the trek back.

Fort George Brewery, Astoria, OR

As our final meal of the trip, I chose a tried and true favorite.  And it isn’t just because I was part of their Homebrewer’s Dinner two years in a row.  Fort George is the home to one of my favorite beerfests, Festival of Dark Arts.  And they make some pretty fantastic beers, too.  While they were out of Java the Hop, I did enjoy some pints of Suicide Squeeze IPA.  We toasted our travels, our revelations, and Captain Clark’s birthday.  

Taking this history road trip has ignited a fire in both of us to want to experience more of our nation’s history, especially from the eyes and perspective of others.  It’s easy for us to be able to read about the experiences, even teach about them from our texts, but to live them has been something so powerful that it rendered us speechless at times.

And the beer wasn’t too bad either!

Captain’s Log: Columbia River

Sacajawea Interpretive Center, Pasco, WA
Our first stop this morning was to Sacajawea State Park (I know, the spelling bugs me too).  This is where the Snake River joins the Columbia River.  The confluence is at a well maintained park with tons (and I mean tons) of talkative geese.  Along with a few dug out canoes and a swimming area, the park was nice and peaceful.  The Corps of Discovery was here, at the meeting of the rivers, on October 16, 1805.

Stonehenge, Maryhill, WA
While this wasn’t a Lewis and Clark stop along the river, it has been a place that I have wanted to visit along Highway 14.  Built by Samuel Hill to honor those that lost their lives to war in the early 1900s, this memorial sits high above the Columbia River.  Names of those local service members are on plaques within the structure and dried roses lay at the bottom of each one.  While the wind had been whipping through the gorge, Stonehenge was beautifully peaceful.

Horsethief Lake State Park, Lyle, WA
It was here on October 24, 1805 that the expedition crossed over the short narrows that flowed right on these banks of the river.  While the Columbia’s course has changed over the past 200 years, the wind through this stretch made whitecaps in the river.  Off to the east, back where we just were on Highway 14, we noticed a grass fire.  Shortly after, emergency vehicles were responding and as of posting time, that grass fire is now at 2000 acres and has shut down Highway 14 in both directions.

Double Mountain Brewery, Hood River, OR
It shouldn’t catch any of you by surprise that I chose Double Mountain as our brewery of the day.  My love for DM runs deep, almost as deep as my love for dinosaurs.  I enjoyed my usual, the TCB and a pint of IPA.  Tonight I chose the Sweet Jane IPA to go along with my sandwich.  As always, the atmosphere was perfect and the service spot on.

Camp 1805, Hood River, OR
After helping a family jump start their car, we walked past this place and knew we had to stop after our river sunset gazing.  How perfect was it that Camp 1805 was calling our name?  When we saddled up to the bar, the spunky bartender making our drinks was fascinated with our road trip and informed us that Lewis and Clark is why they named their distillery what they did (we kinda figured that).  Toasting how far we have come over these past 12 days was the perfect end to the last night of our expedition.  Ocean, here we come!

Captain’s Log: Lewiston

Travelers’ Rest State Park, Lolo, MT
September 9, 1805: The Corps camped at a spot they called Travelers’ Rest while they prepared for their Bitterroot Mountain crossing.
We started off our trek today at this state park.  What we found fascinating is that this is the ONLY scientifically proven campsite of the Lewis and Clark expedition. And it was proven with poop.  Not joking.  The men on the expedition took pills containing mercury to cure several ailments.  (You don’t want to know what for).  Mercury vapor was found here and proved that the expedition camped (and pooped) at this location.

Lolo Pass, Montana/Idaho Border
September 13, 1805: Lewis and Clark passed over Lolo Summit
The drive over Highway 12, and its 99 miles of windy roads, was absolutely gorgeous today.  We weren’t in a hurry and were able to turn out whenever we saw a historical marker, which were aplenty.  Over the past 10 days we’ve been noting the changing scenery.  It wasn’t until today that we started to feel like we were heading home.

Nez Perce National Historic Park, Kamiah, ID
Here lies the Heart of the Monster, the creation story of how the tribes came to be.  Lewis and Clark also met with the Nez Perce here on September 22, 1805 on their way west.
While we walked around, we saw familiar warning signs for rattlesnakes.  They seemed to be everywhere in the Midwest.  So what did we do?  We continued walking.  Until we heard a loud rustle in the tall grass.  Then we walked quickly back to the paved path and to the car.

Lewis and Clark Discovery Center, Lewiston, ID
October 7, 1805: The Expedition begins west on the Clearwater River.
This discovery center, while small in nature, held some interesting information that we hadn’t encountered before, to include the story of Weetxuwiis.  She convinced her tribal leaders that the men of the Expedition meant no harm.  After a short film, we walked around outside along the Clearwater River and imagined the Corps’ relief to finally be out of the mountains.

MJ Barleyhoppers Brewhouse, Lewiston, ID
Apparently it isn’t common for people to sit outside on 100 degree evenings.  We were loving the dry heat and view of the surrounding hills, so we braved it.  The hazy sun, clouded by the nearby wildfires, kept us warm, while the beverages kept us hydrated.  I enjoyed a pint of Hip Check IPA out of Boise Brewing Company.  Even though this place had some questionable reviews, we really enjoyed the atmosphere, the service, and the food.

Captain’s Log: Great Falls to Missoula

Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center, Great Falls, MT

We started our Sunday morning at the center when they opened.  Greeted by some enthusiastic staff, we headed right into the museum.  Most impressive was the real life display of how the Corps got around the Great Falls in Montana: pulling their boats on pulleys up steep cliffs.  Lewis, Clark, and crew took 28 days to get around these falls.  It was our first center that had a lot of information on Sacagawea: from her contributions, to her struggles, to her family reunion on the trail west.  

First People’s Buffalo Jump, Ulm, MT

A short drive from the interpretive center and we were at one of the largest buffalo jumps in the country.  This place was very thought provoking.  As we went through the display and read about buffalo culture and its importance to the native tribes, we found ourselves reflecting a lot on the effect that western expansion has had on everyone else.  Seeing how the populations of buffalo were needlessly killed and skinned for the their fur, without honoring the culture and using the whole animal, has lead to famine and death among tribes.  It made us sad.  It made us mad.  But more importantly, it made us think.  

Garnet Ghost Town, Garnet, MT

A fun detour to Garnet Ghost Town was planned until we ended up in Missoula for the night.  A gravelly drive up the mountain revealed itself to a quaint little town, once booming with life during the Montana Gold Rush.  Garnet had two saloons and a speakeasy, as well as a hotel and a jail.  We opted to take a different road out as it had signs for I-90.  Quickly finding ourselves on a narrow, boulder ridden path, we nervously navigated down the switchbacks.  It was scary.  Beyond words.  I think we still might not believe what we went through.  Nothing short of a miracle that we made it down safely. 

Highlander Beer and Western Cider, Missoula, MT

These two places were such a delight after our harrowing experience.  First off was Highlander for some dinner and beers.  We loved the outdoor space, the live music, and super friendly patrons.  I enjoyed the Zootown IPA so much I just had to get crowler to bring back.  Because one thing our car needs is more beer!  A promise of cider for my travel partner had us heading to Western Cider next.  Every single cider I had was delicious.  I especially loved the Perry (I might be biased) and the Poor Farmer-Hopped.  The outdoor space was so peaceful that we didn’t even realize that we were out there way past closing.  It was the perfect ending to a roller coaster day.  

Captain’s Log: Dinosaurs and Beer

I know.  I know.  This post doesn’t sound very Lewis and Clark.  And to be honest, it won’t be.  Eastern Montana was full of historical markers but nothing really to “see” about the expedition.  What we didn’t expect to encounter were dinosaurs!

Fort Peck Interpretive Center, Fort Peck, MT
We arrived at this center fully expecting a display with verbiage on the expedition.  While we did see the little bit that was stated about Lewis and Clark, another attraction caught my attention.  Peck’s Rex! Unbeknownst to me was that Montana has a Dinosaur Trail!  (Next summer...who’s in?).  You see, my love for dinosaurs runs deep.  Apparently I taught myself to read with a dinosaur encyclopedia (how hard could that have been?!?) and have loved them ever since.  After awing over the artifacts, we hit the road and continued west.

Great Plains Dinosaur Museum, Malta, MN
As if Fort Peck’s surprise wasn’t enough, when we were passing through Malta we found yet another dinosaur museum.  You could hear my squeals of excitement when I quickly pulled over.  The Great Plains Museum had my favorite Stegasaurus outfront and bones inside, including one of its plates.  As I went round and round taking it all in, I found a sign for a dinosaur beer.  Had I died and gone to heaven?  When I asked the sweet lady at the front desk about it, she said that the brewery was having their grand opening today.  What?!?  Malta, I’m in love!

Blue Ridge Brewery, Malta, MN
Well, of course we had to check out this brand new brewery.  As we walked in, the place was packed with family and friends.  We might have accidentally photo bombed their official opening picture, too.  Great decor, cozy space, and a solid tap list.  I sampled their Pale and Iron Stake IPA.  If we didn’t have a timeline to get to Great Falls, I could have enjoyed pints of both, but settled on the IPA for time’s sake.

Mighty Mo Brewing Co, Great Falls, MT
When we showed up to the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center 20 minutes before closing (dinos monopolized our day), we were encouraged to come back in the morning and fully enjoy it.  So, we decided to head straight to dinner at Mighty Mo’s.  It’s been awhile since I drank at a brewery in Montana (well like three hours at this point) but I didn’t realize the stipulations on serving size and time.  The last beer is poured at 8pm and you can’t have any more than 48 ounces at one establishment.  I enjoyed a sampler of IPA, Pale, Coffee Blonde, and Apricot Wheat.  All were delicious.  Especially that IPA.  But the keg blew when it was pint time, so I enjoyed their hopped up Pale instead.

Captain’s Log: Williston

Today was the day that we had been waiting for all week.  After six days (or six months on the expedition) we made it to Fort Mandan in North Dakota.  This location holds a lot of significance.  The Corps wintered here from November 1804 until April 1805.  It was here that they learned about the Great Falls of the Missouri, what to expect of the Native Americans they would encounter, and where they obtained the services of Sacagawea and her husband, Touissant Charbonneau.  The fort took a month and a half to build and they only stayed in it four months, when the last piece of ice floated by on the Missouri River.

After we spent some time at the fort, we headed to the Knife River Indian Village. This was where Sacagawea lived with the Hidatsa tribe prior to joining the Lewis and Clark Expedition.  The Hidatsa Indians captured her from her home tribe of Shoshone in Southwestern Montana.  We were able to hike out to her village’s location along the Knife River and observe the left over mounds where their homes once were.  Most of the mounds have washed away over the past two hundred years, but several were still there.  To think that we were standing where Sacagawea once stood was powerful.

Williston Brewing Company, Williston, ND
After a pretty quick three hour drive northwest of the Knife River, around Lake Sakakawea, we arrived in Williston.  Large game ornaments adorned the walls and shotguns served as door handles.  Yes, we are in North Dakota.  We moved into a cozy booth and spent the next three hours eating, drinking, and solving world problems.  I loved their 1280 IPA.  WBC had 40 some beers, but only three were theirs.  This IPA was so light and delicious, pairing well with my Buffalo Chicken Salad.  Our last day in the Dakotas was one of the best so far.

Captain’s Log: Bismarck

Sacagawea’s Monument, Mobridge, SD
We started off this morning with the rising sun, heading two hours north to Mobridge, South Dakota.  Luckily our fifth grade map skills didn’t fail us when our GPS did.  Sacagawea’s Monument sits on a peaceful bluff right above the Missouri River.  A short walk away also sits Sitting Bull’s Memorial.  This will all come full circle (unbeknownst to us) at our final stop today.  I could have stayed here all day talking in the view and reflecting on Sacagawea’s life.

The Legend of Stone Idol Creek, Polluck, SD
A lot happened in Polluck for the Expedition.  The Court Marshall of John Newman, the member of the Corps that was found guilty of “mutinous expressions” occurred on October 13, 1804.  That same day,  Clark noted the three stones and the legend of them by the Arikara in his journals.  We were determined to find those stones.  After we checked in at the restaurant at the West Polluck Resort, that included a warning of rattlesnakes, we once again found ourselves on some gravel road.  Did we find the stones?  No.  But we sure tried.  More importantly, we didn’t see any rattlesnakes.  I call that a win!

Fort Abraham Lincoln State Park, Mandan, ND
After a ten hour travel day (four of those hours for a very important Starbucks mug acquisition), we arrived at the Fort.  We were there primarily to see the On-A-Slant Indian Village that was abandoned by the time Lewis and Clark arrived in 1804.  What we didn’t expect to find was Lt. Col. George Armstrong Custer’s house.  It was from this fort that he and the Seventh Calvary left to fight the Lakota Sioux and Cheyenne tribes and never returned.  Sitting Bull was victorious in that fight against the U.S.  Today proved to be an unexpected historical connection from start to finish.

Laughing Sun Brewing Company, Bismarck, ND
All of that driving worked up quite a thirst.  We pulled up to a table outside on the patio and I opted for a sampler of the Whippin’ Post Pale, White Wedding IPA, Feast Like a Sultan IPA, and 19th Ammendment Imperial Stout.  I loved every one of them.  Not joking.  They were fantastic.  Loving any Billy Idol reference I can get, I had a few pints of the White Wedding and even took some to go.  Dinner was brought to us by Fireflour Pizzeria with live music by Luke Ellenbaum.  I loved everything about this place.  Did I say that already?

Captain’s Log: Pierre

August 27, 1804
The Corps camped at Calumet Bluff for four days.  On August 30, they held a productive council with the Yankton Sioux.
Stop 1:  Calumet Bluff, Nebraska
We arrived here Wednesday morning after thinking that we missed the landmark to yet another closed road.  A sweeping 180 foot high view of the Gavins Point Dam and a visitor’s center sit on this bluff now.

Stop 2:  Old Baldy, Lynch, NE
And now comes the adventure of the day.  Once we arrived in Lynch, we trustingly followed our GPS up seven miles (one way) of an unpaved road rollercoaster.  When we saw Old Baldy, we weren’t quite able to figure out how to get to it.  Or even if we were supposed to.  This is where Lewis and Clark captured a prairie dog (they called them barking squirrels) and sent it back to Washington DC for President Jefferson.  Our ride back into town (those same seven miles) included dive bombing butterflies and a stand off with one grasshopper, while another jumped in our car and wanted a ride.  I couldn’t drive back to the interstate fast enough.

September 25, 1804
The Corps had their first encounter with the Teton Sioux.  The captains brought the chiefs out to the keelboat and upon Clark returning the chiefs to shore, the Teton Sioux tried to delay him.  Weapons were drawn and eventually the chief ordered his men to stand down.
Stop 3:  La Framboise Island (Bad Humor Island) Pierre, SD
Needless to say, it was important for us to come here as this location could have ended the entire expedition.  A nice island full of hiking trails, cicada sounds, and water surrounded us.  We definitely had a more peaceful encounter here than the Corps did.

Stop 4:  Bill of Rights Brewery, Pierre, SD
After a long day of driving through endless plains, and let’s not forget those crazy bugs, it was time for a beer.  We came upon this brewery in Pierre that had a well executed theme in the state’s capital.  I chose a sampler of the Honey Basil, Lady Liberty, IPA, and Brown.  My favorite was the Lady Liberty: a light refreshing ginger beer that hit the spot.

Captain’s Log: Sioux City

August 3, 1804: The first official council between US Government representatives and Western Indians happened after breakfast.

Stop 1:  Fort Atkinson State Historical Park, Fort Calhoun, NE

We started our morning out at Fort Calhoun with these life size sculptures of the first council between the Corps and the Otoe and Missouri Indians.  Luckily, we had this place all to ourselves and were able to walk around outside peacefully.  Except for the insects.  I have never seen so many grasshoppers in my life.  Apparently Clark thought that this location was so ideal for a fort that one was built in 1820.

Stop 2:  Lewis and Clark State Park, Onawa, IA

Another beautiful afternoon found us at this floating keelboat on Blue Lake.  Lewis and Clark found themselves here on August 9-10 1804 when this was where the Missouri River flowed.  Even though the boat was large, I couldn’t have imagined navigating this up the fast flowing Missouri, full of crew and supplies.  We checked the map to see how far we had come, and then continued north.

Stop 3:  Sergeant Floyd Memorial, Sioux City, IA

The one and only death on the entire 28 month expedition happened just 98 days in.  On August 20, 1804, Sergeant Charles Floyd suffered from what is now believed to be a ruptured appendix.  He passed just below his memorial, on a keelboat in the Missouri River.  The Corps brought him up on this hill and buried him on what is now known as Floyd Bluffs.  A stunning tribute to a vital member of the expedition.

Stop 4: Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center, Sioux City, IA
Let’s be honest.  We have been on this expedition for now six days. A lot of Lewis and Clark history has been thrown our way.  Just when you think you know everything, a place like this Interpretive Center comes out and surprises you.  Focused on the Siouxland, this museum had life like replicas of the men (I swear one was an actual man) as well as details about the expedition that have only just been briefly touched upon at different locations.  What was even more impressive was the helpfulness of the lady behind the counter that took it upon herself to find us a brewery.

Stop 5:  Jackson Street Brewery, Sioux City, IA
Located right downtown, this brewery offered several styles that caught my eye.  Another sampler resulted in crowlers (and a pint)  of the Fruity Pebbles IPA and Crazy 4 Coconuts.  That imperial stout tasted like beer Kahlua. If that is even a thing.  Super impressed with this Sioux City gem.

Captain’s Log: Omaha

July 4, 1804
The Corps of Discovery celebrates the first Independence Day west of the Mississippi River with gills of whiskey in Atchison, Kansas.

Stop 1:  Lewis and Clark Landing, Atchison, KS
A two hour drive north of where we stayed in Overland Park, we arrived in Atchison to an expansive view of the rapidly moving Missouri River.  It was so quick that there were many warnings about its dangers.  While the Corps celebrated here with whiskey, we celebrated by playing on a keelboat at the accompanying playground.  It’s kind of the same thing.




Stop 2:  Amelia Earhart’s Birthplace, Atchison, KS

A complete surprise discovery as we were driving across the bridge into Kansas was that Amelia Earhart was not only born here, but there was a festival in her honor just this past weekend.  After our riverfront playtime, we headed up the hill to visit her childhood home.  We marveled at all the artifacts collected from her short life of 39 years.  I was particularly interested to find that the plane she disappeared in used propellers from the company my dad used to work for.  Ornate decorations, including the original stained glass windows in the formal dining room, adorned the house from top to bottom.

Stop 3:  The Home of Jesse James, St. Joseph, MO
While this home wasn’t in its original location, it is completely intact with fascinating evidence regarding the murder of this famous outlaw.  Killed at the age of 34 by one of his own gang members, Jesse’s life is chronicalled throughout the rooms of this home.  Rumor has it, Bob Ford, the friend that murdered him, only received $750 of the $10,000 reward promised to him by the governor.  Above the actual bullet hole in the wall hangs the needlepoint picture that Jesse was straightening when that fatal shot was fired.

August 3, 1804
The Corps of Discovery holds a council with the Oto and Missouri Indians north of present day Omaha, NE

Stop 4:  Lewis and Clark Monument, Council Bluffs, IA

A fingers crossed drive up Monument Drive resulted in this sweeping view of the surrounding valley.  The monument here commemorates the first council between the Corps and Native Americans.  As you can imagine, this meeting was vital to the success of the expedition.  While we didn’t know if we would make it here in time, by the looks of that picture, it seems as though we timed it just right.

Stop 5: Benson Brewery, Omaha, NE
Another full day of history led us to this gem.  Not only did they have a slew of great beers, but a gorgeous food menu.  I opted for a sampler of two IPAs, a red, and an imperial stout.  Their West Coast IPA, Somewhere In Between, won my choice for pint.  I love tasting non WC brewery interpretations of my favorite style.  Benson hit the nail on the head.

Captain’s Log: Kansas City

June 9th 1804
“We set out early, and reached a cliff called the Arrow Rock, near to which is a prairie called the Prairie of Arrows...At this cliff the Missouri is confined within a bed of 200 yards: and about four miles to the southeast is a large lick and salt spring of great strength.”  Journal of William Clark

Stop 1:  Arrow Rock State Historic Site, Saline County, MO
After an exciting night with a full hotel power outage and four hours of shut eye, we headed west to Arrow Rock, only after a quick stop at Ozarkland.  Don’t let those highway signs fool you.  Just keep driving.
This site had a lot of history overall, not just Lewis and Clark based.  Salt was an integral part of life, as it aided in the preservation of meat.  In fact, a lot had to do with Daniel Boone, whose son later helped Clark build Fort Osage (our next stop).  My partner in crime was captivated by the sounds of the cicadas.  I was intent on staying on track.  So off to Fort Osage we went.


June 23-24th 1804
The Corps of Discovery spent Saturday afternoon through Sunday morning across from these bluffs.  Clark considered this spot to be a good place for a fort with its “high commanding position, more than 70 feet above high water.”

Stop 2:  Fort Osage, Jackson County, MO
Clark noted the advantageousness of this location in his journal: “...this situation I had examined in the year 1804 and was delighted with it and am equally now...”  Fort Osage sits on the Missouri River with a stunning view of the waterway below.  Clark’s third visit to this location in 1808 resulted in the construction of the fort as both a military presensce and trading post.  Fort buildings outside of the Visitor’s Center provided some great exploration.

Stop 3:  Kansas City Royals at Kauffman Stadium, Kansas City, MO
I love numbers and checklists.  Maybe it’s because I’m a math teacher.  Today, my Major League Baseball Stadium checklist earned it’s 12th member: Kauffman Stadium.  Coming in during the third inning resulted in free parking and short beer lines.  I sipped on a pint of Boulevard’s Pale Ale while enjoying the fountains, the people watching, and of course, the game.



Stop 4:  Cinder Block Brewery, Kansas City, MO

This brewery was on my radar during the planning phase of this adventure because my travel buddy loves cider.  And this place offers two: an English style with Missouri cherries and a French one.  A well rounded tap list resulted in another sampler for me.  (Don’t worry.  I’m not complaining.)  The clear winner for me was the Block 15 IPA, with their Hop Maven Tropical IPA and Prime Extra Pale Ale tied for second.  Lucky for them, I was able to take a four pack off of their hands of that delicious hop monster.  Today, a well orchestrated plan of history, baseball, and beer came to life.  Lewis and Clark would have been proud.